Hundreds of hours of desperate mum-researching went into creating Frankie Apothecary's Kawakawa Repair Balm. And with thousands of happy customers, it’s clear all that aroha, energy, and pure determination poured into it were well worth it.
But what actually makes an eczema topical effective? One theme kept popping up—the power of a water-free formula. Here’s why:
1. Water evaporates, taking moisture with it
Eczema-prone skin already struggles to hold onto moisture—it loses hydration way faster than normal skin. That’s where emollients and occlusives come in:
Emollients (like shea butter, jojoba, and kawakawa-infused oil) soften and smooth the skin by filling in gaps between skin cells.
Occlusives (like beeswax) create a protective layer on the skin’s surface, sealing in hydration.
Now, when you mix these with water in a cream, what happens? That water evaporates quickly, meaning the moisture-locking ingredients lose their staying power. But in a water-free balm, they sit tight, keeping skin hydrated for longer.
2. Water needs a preservative system (which can be irritating)
Where there’s water, there’s the potential for bacteria and mould to grow—so preservatives are needed. Some are mild, but others can trigger irritation, especially for sensitive skin. Things to keep an eye out for are parabens (hopefully, we're seeing les of these now), benzalkonium chlorides and even some natural preservatives such as sodium benzoate and potassium sorbate can be a problem for some. (1)(2)
Keep in mind that not everyone reacts to preservatives, but if you’ve got eczema-prone skin, it makes sense to minimize the risk.
3. Water free means more of the good stuff
Ever checked the ingredient list on a cream and noticed “aqua” or “water” listed first? That means a big chunk of what you’re paying for is… water.
In contrast, a water-free balm is packed only with nourishing, skin-loving ingredients. No fillers. No fluff.
Take Frankie Apothecary’s Kawakawa Repair Balm—every single ingredient has a job to do, whether it’s soothing, protecting, or deeply hydrating your skin.

4. The Eczema Association highlights water-free
The Eczema Association highlights that water-free products don’t need preservatives and are better at sealing in moisture—making them a great choice for dry, sensitive skin. When the goal is long-lasting hydration and barrier repair, an oil-based balm wins every time.
The takeaway? Water-free is best
Most traditional eczema creams contain water and preservatives—two things that sometimes do more harm than good for sensitive skin.
A water-free solution, like Frankie Apothecary’s Kawakawa Repair Balm, keeps all the nourishing goodness where it belongs—on your skin—without unnecessary fillers or irritants.
When it comes to eczema care, every ingredient counts. And the fewer unnecessary ones, the better.